Enrique Olvera has become an important spokesperson for Mexican cuisine worldwide. Seventeen years after opening Pujol in Mexico City, his haute Mexican cuisine restaurant known as one of the world’s best, he is now opening a new venue at Tennyson 133.
The old Pujol, dark and very formal has been left behind to receive guests at a new area. Much friendlier, casual and better lit, adapting to current trends, now that guests seek restaurants where to spend a nice time and have a great meal, straying away from the sites they only visit on special occasions.
I was so curious and interested in getting to know this new area, that I chose it to celebrate my anniversary. I anxiously waited for a couple of weeks with great excitement, as a child being told we’re going to Disneyland. The highly-anticipated moment finally arrived, and I’m not going to lie, a voice inside me was hoping it wouldn’t disappoint. As soon as I arrived at the new Pujol, I knew it was one of those unique experiences we foodies must enjoy at least once in a lifetime.
Here are six reasons why the new Pujol is worth visiting:
Architectural project
Upon walking through the wood and concrete entrance and seeing the plants, your mind will travel to Japan for its extremely clean, modern and Zen aesthetics featured by this property from the 50’s. It certainly reminded me of the ultra-modern hotels of Tokyo and Kyoto where architecture and décor are the most important elements. Although, at first glance, the hall doesn’t appear quite Mexican, every detail, including food and interior design, will remind you for our culture. Javier Sanchez was at the head of the architectural project, while Micaela de Bernardi oversaw the interior design.
Dominating this space are natural materials and neutral colors (white, gray and black), gray stone floors, ceilings with wooden beams, windows from floor to ceiling, and a long bar at the center made of black granite. The furniture was inspired by the work of Cuban-Mexican Clara Porset, a mentor of national design in the 20th century. You will be amazed by the beauty of this new space!
Urban Orchard
Following the movement of urban orchards that have been emerging in cities around the world, Pujol has its own in Xochimilco. Here is where agricultural environmentalist Lily Foster employs organic farming techniques, including rainwater harvesting, and recycling grey waters for irrigation. This is how guests can enjoy the freshest local ingredients at Pujol.
Menu
Regarding food, at the main hall, Pujol offers a six-course menu that varies according to season and seasonal ingredients. For four-courses, guests can choose among a variety of dishes, according to their preferences. Dishes are served in reasonable portions, don’t worry, you will not leave hungry.
Once you are seated, you will be welcomed with a couple of snacks, the best being tender corn with chicatana mayonnaise, a Mexican street food that reminds us of our childhood. During my visit, we chose different dishes in order to try more things, our favorites were: octopus with habanero ink, ayocote and Veracruzana sauce; a spectacular crunchy naked crab with lemon and herbs; cauliflower with a very interesting mix of flavors and almond macha sauce, tree chili and crackling chicken; the papadzul bathed in quintoniles, quail eggs and tomato and chili sauce; the mole madre; and finally, the chocolate tamale with guava, soursop and hazelnut butter, the undeniably perfect sweet conclusion.
Traditional dishes with unique touches
Enrique Olvera has stood out for creating simple yet complex dishes. He uses traditional recipes and ingredients, but adjusts certain details to transform and innovate the dishes he serves at Pujol. The perfect example is the legendary mole madre he offers in the sampling menu, and we have seen on numerous occasions on social media, even in an episode of Chef’s Table. This mole is worth taking a picture! So, control the urge of eating immediately, and take a picture for Instagram. The dish is a circle formed by two sauces, a mole madre that had been cooking for 1268 days on the day of my visit, and a tablespoon of freshly made mole at the center. The sauce is eaten with tortillas, without silverware, until the plate has been polished clean, that’s how tasty it is! It’s worth noting that tortillas are made with hoja santa, creating a fantastic and original flavor combination.
Taco Omakase
In addition to the sampling menu, chef Olvera debuts an omakase menu at the bar. Ten guests get to enjoy this 12-course experience that includes tacos and other delights. Similar to the omakase-style restaurants of Japan, guests grant the chef the power to decide, who then serves dishes, tacos in this case, according to the fresh ingredients of that day. To enjoy this sampler, you must make reservations in advance because there are very few spots available.
In support of Mexican talent
Indubitably, Enrique Olvera is the most renowned Mexican chef worldwide. Let’s support Mexican talent, and get to know the cuisine offered in our city! The waiter told us that only twenty percent of guests are Mexican. Honestly, as soon as they see that the guests are Mexican, waiters give their best to assist and provide a wonderful experience.
Pujol will always be the same, regardless of its location. You can clearly notice how they have evolved throughout these 17 years, constantly improving and learning to offer the best Mexican cuisine, for both nationals and foreigners. Pujol is and will continue being synonymous to good food.
